Why the fashion world’s net-zero carbon emissions goal hinges on big brands sharing the cost, and why for manufacturers, one size doesn’t fit all

As climate discussions take place in Dubai, the fashion industry is grappling with how to achieve its ambitious goal of significantly reducing its carbon emissions. Major brands have committed to substantial reductions in their carbon footprints, but the majority of the environmental damage is caused by manufacturing processes, and the cost of implementing radical changes must be borne by someone. Vidhura Ralapanawe, the executive vice-president of Hong Kong-based fashion manufacturer Epic Group, states that the cost of decarbonisation far exceeds the available funds.

The fashion industry is one of the most environmentally damaging sectors. It is responsible for 2% to 8% of all greenhouse gas emissions, consumes vast amounts of water, and generates significant pollution and waste. In 2018, the industry set a goal to halve emissions by 2030 and achieve net-zero emissions by 2050. However, progress has been slow. The carbon footprint of Britain's monthly fashion consumption alone is equivalent to 900 round-the-world flights. The environmental damage caused by manufacturing a single cotton shirt is the same as that caused by a 35-mile car journey.

The fashion industry is aware that from next year, it will have to comply with European Union legislation that requires companies to report and address emissions in their supply chains. Manufacturing is responsible for about 80% of all emissions in the apparel sector. As global fashion brands pledge to reduce emissions and strive towards the 2050 net-zero goal, textile and garment manufacturers are demanding that brands share the financial burden of investing in low-carbon technologies and processes.