Shein backlash fails to deter shoppers: 'I spend £20 a month'

Emily, a 21-year-old woman, spends about £20 each month on clothes from Shein, a well-known fast-fashion retailer based in China. Shein has become a go-to place for many people in the UK and the US who are looking for affordable clothing options. Emily mentions, 'You can almost always find what you're looking for, even if the quality is bad. ' Despite the controversies surrounding Shein's labor practices, many shoppers, including Emily, continue to purchase from the brand because they find other options too expensive. She has thought about stopping her purchases from Shein due to concerns about how the company treats its workers, but she feels that the prices at other stores are simply too high. The rise of Shein has been remarkable; it has transformed from a relatively unknown company to one of the largest clothing retailers in the world in just a few years. According to GlobalData, Shein's global sales were estimated to have reached $36. 9 billion, which is approximately £30. 2 billion last year. Although Shein is a private company and does not disclose its total sales figures, it is reported that its profits in the UK doubled in 2023, exceeding £24 million. Shein offers a vast array of clothing options, far surpassing competitors like H&M and Zara. Many of its items are priced below £10, and the company is known for its ability to quickly produce new designs. As Shein prepares for a potential stock market flotation in the UK, it faces increased scrutiny regarding its labor practices and overall business operations. Last year, the company implemented stricter checks on its suppliers in response to growing concerns. Additionally, Shein has faced allegations of using cotton sourced from forced labor. In response to the BBC's investigation into working conditions, Shein stated that it is 'committed to ensuring the fair and dignified treatment of all workers within our supply chain. ' The company is investing tens of millions of dollars to improve its governance and compliance measures. They aim to uphold high standards for worker pay and require all supply chain partners to adhere to their code of conduct. However, reports indicate that workers in factories producing Shein's clothing earn very little, with wages ranging from one to two yuan for making a t-shirt, which translates to only 11p to 22p. Sarah Johnson, a retail consultant and former head of buying for Asos China, suggests that Shein could increase payments to its suppliers, allowing them to pay their workers better. She explains that suppliers do not receive a significant portion of the final price of the garments. 'You could raise their pay, and it would make a minimal amount of difference to the garment price,' she notes. Another option would be for Shein to reduce its profit margins. Sophie Wills, a shopper from Birmingham, has previously bought clothes from Shein due to their affordability. However, after learning about the company's supply chain practices, she is reconsidering her choices. 'Times are hard,' she admits, and she believes that saving up for higher-quality clothing would be a better approach. Thando Sibenke, another shopper, shares that her entire outfit is from Shein. She appreciates the low prices and variety but plans to conduct more research on the companies she buys from in the future. Georgina, a 24-year-old from London, expresses her embarrassment about having shopped at Shein and has decided to stop. 'Since reading up on it, the negatives massively outweigh the positives,' she says. Fashion designer and academic Shazia Saleem points out that many young people, particularly those in Generation Z, often claim that sustainability and ethics are important to them. However, this concern does not always translate into their purchasing decisions. Young consumers often feel pressured to buy new outfits to maintain their social media presence, and with limited disposable income, they may continue to opt for fast fashion. Saleem believes that while individuals should strive to make informed purchasing choices, it is ultimately the government's responsibility to strengthen existing trading standards to ensure that companies sell sustainable and ethically produced products. Louise Deglise-Favre, a senior apparel analyst at GlobalData, also anticipates that affordability will continue to outweigh ethical concerns for Shein shoppers. She notes that younger customers often have limited disposable income due to being in school or working low-paying jobs. Shein's strategy of releasing thousands of new products daily encourages consumers to buy more, catering to the desire for constant wardrobe updates with the latest trends.