'We left pieces of our life behind': Indigenous group flees drowning island

In Panama, an Indigenous group known as the Guna has had to leave their home on the island of Gardi Sugdub due to the threat of rising sea levels caused by climate change. Scientists predict that by the year 2050, the island will no longer be safe for habitation. Delfino Davies, who runs a small museum on the island, reflects on the changes he has witnessed. He recalls a time when the island was vibrant with the sounds of children playing and music filling the air. Now, however, the island is eerily quiet, and many of his friends and family have relocated. Delfino expresses his deep connection to the island, stating, 'If the island sinks, I will sink with it. ' He wishes to remain close to the ocean, where he can continue to fish and uphold his cultural traditions. In June 2024, the majority of the island's residents moved to a new settlement called Isberyala, located on the mainland. While the new homes are modern and organized, many residents feel a profound sense of loss for their old island life. Approximately 1,000 people left Gardi Sugdub, while around 100 chose to stay behind. Some residents remained due to a lack of space in the new settlement, while others, like Delfino, are skeptical about the reality of climate change and prefer to stay close to their traditional way of life. The Guna people have inhabited Gardi Sugdub since the 19th century, having fled from the mainland to escape various threats, including Spanish colonization and disease. They are known for their distinctive clothing called 'molas,' which feature intricate and colorful designs. As climate change continues to impact the environment, scientists warn that many coastal communities, including the Guna, may face severe challenges in the coming years. Delfino and his neighbors have experienced firsthand the effects of rising tides, which have flooded their homes and made living conditions increasingly difficult. Magdalena Martínez, another resident, shared her experience of the rising waters, saying, 'Every year, we saw the tides were higher. ' She felt a deep sadness as she prepared to leave her home, taking only her clothes and a few kitchen items. 'You feel like you are leaving pieces of your life on the island,' she lamented. The new settlement, Isberyala, is a stark contrast to Gardi Sugdub. The houses are uniform in design, and there is more space for gardens and outdoor activities. Magdalena is eager to plant fruits and vegetables in her new yard, a luxury she did not have on the island. Despite the challenges of leaving her friends and the familiar surroundings of the sea, she remains hopeful for the future. The Panamanian government, along with the Inter-American Development Bank, provided funding to build Isberyala, which has been designed to accommodate the needs of the relocated residents. Tito López, the community leader, believes that their cultural identity will endure as long as they continue to practice their traditions. The new school in Isberyala plays a crucial role in preserving Guna culture by teaching students about traditional music and dance. While life in Isberyala offers some improvements, such as better access to electricity and more space, there are still significant challenges to overcome. The new settlement currently lacks a hospital, forcing residents to travel back to Gardi Sugdub for medical care. The community is actively working to adapt to their new environment while striving to maintain their cultural heritage and identity.