First British tourists allowed back into North Korea tell BBC what they saw

Recently, a group of British tourists made their way to North Korea, a nation known for its strict rules and secrecy. The tourists were informed by their guides about the many regulations they had to follow during their visit. For instance, they were told that they would not have access to phone signals, the internet, or cash machines. As they prepared to cross the border into North Korea, the guides emphasized important rules such as 'Do not insult the leaders' and 'Do not judge. ' These guidelines were designed to ensure the safety of the tourists and to help them understand the cultural differences they would encounter in a country that operates very differently from their own. Rowan Beard, the operator of Young Pioneer Tours, one of the two Western companies that resumed trips to North Korea, explained that the North Korean people are not devoid of thoughts and feelings. He encouraged the tourists to engage with the locals and learn from their experiences. After a long period of isolation due to the pandemic, North Korea finally opened its borders to a select group of tourists, and many were eager to explore what the country had to offer. The group consisted of travelers from various countries, including the UK, France, Germany, and Australia, all excited to see North Korea, especially since it had been so long since anyone could visit. The itinerary included visits to a pharmacy, a school, and even a beer factory. Throughout the trip, the tourists were accompanied by local guides who ensured they adhered to the pre-approved schedule. One of the tourists, Mike O'Kennedy, a British YouTuber, was taken aback by the level of control exerted by the guides. He likened the experience to being on a school trip, as they were not allowed to leave the hotel without permission. Mike also observed that everyone in North Korea seemed to be working diligently, which was a stark contrast to the relaxed atmosphere he was used to. During a visit to a school, he witnessed children performing a dance routine that depicted missile launches, which he found quite shocking. Instead of visiting the capital city, Pyongyang, the tourists were taken to a smaller region called Rason. This area is unique because it serves as a testing ground for new economic policies. In Rason, some Chinese businesses collaborate with North Koreans, allowing for a degree of freedom that is not present in other parts of the country. Joe Smith, another tourist who has visited North Korea multiple times, remarked that each visit leaves him with more questions than answers. He was particularly excited about a visit to a market where locals were selling items like jeans and perfumes, but they were prohibited from taking photographs there. Joe felt that this market represented a more authentic side of North Korean life, in contrast to the more controlled environments they had experienced. However, the tourists noticed that their movements were more restricted than in previous trips, with fewer opportunities to explore the streets or interact with locals. The guides explained that this was partly due to ongoing concerns about COVID-19. The tourists underwent health checks, and many locals were still wearing masks. Some travelers speculated that the government was using COVID-19 as a means to maintain control over the population. The guides informed the tourists that the virus had entered the country from South Korea but had been eradicated quickly. However, Rowan, who has visited North Korea over a hundred times, sensed that the area had been affected by strict COVID-19 regulations, leading to the closure of many businesses. Joe also noted that many buildings appeared dilapidated and in need of repair. He described his hotel room as outdated and dirty, likening it to his grandmother's living room. The tourists were surprised to find that the country did not match the polished images they had seen in government propaganda. They realized that the regime works hard to present a perfect image of North Korea, but the reality was often quite different. The opportunities for tourists to interact with local people were limited, but when they did, they found that the guides were surprisingly well-informed about global events. They were aware of issues such as the war in Ukraine and tariffs imposed by the United States. However, when Joe showed a picture from Syria, his guide was unaware that the president had been overthrown. This highlighted the challenges North Koreans face in accessing information. Mike felt apprehensive about what to say during conversations with the guides, as he did not want to inadvertently put anyone in danger. He recounted an experience where he wrote a message in a visitors' book that his guide later deemed inappropriate, which made him feel uneasy about expressing his thoughts. Greg, another tour leader, believed that tourism could provide North Koreans with valuable opportunities to engage with foreigners and exchange ideas. However, many critics argue that tourism in North Korea primarily benefits the regime rather than the local population. Joanna Hosaniak, a critic of North Korean tourism, pointed out that most citizens are unaware of the tourists' presence, and the money spent by visitors goes to the government, which uses it to fund military activities. Mike recalled a conversation with a girl at the school who expressed her desire to visit the UK one day. He felt a pang of sadness, knowing that her chances of traveling outside North Korea were extremely slim. This trip to North Korea was a unique experience for the tourists, but it also raised many questions about the country and its people, leaving them with a deeper understanding of the complexities of life in such a closed-off nation.