How bodies of frozen climbers were finally recovered from Everest 'death zone'

In a significant effort to clean up the high peaks of the Himalayas, a dedicated team in Nepal has successfully recovered four bodies from the treacherous 'death zone' of Mount Everest. This operation was led by Tshiring Jangbu Sherpa, who has vivid memories of encountering a dead body near the summit of Mount Lhotse over a decade ago. Back in May 2012, while guiding a German climber, he stumbled upon the body of Milan Sedlacek, a Czech mountaineer who had tragically died just days before. Tshiring was left wondering how a climber could perish so close to the summit. He noticed that one of the gloves on the frozen body was missing, leading him to speculate that the climber may have lost his grip and fallen. Since that day, climbers attempting to reach the summit of Mount Lhotse have had to pass by that body, a haunting reminder of the dangers of high-altitude climbing. Little did Tshiring know that twelve years later, he would return to retrieve that very body as part of a military-led clean-up operation aimed at addressing the growing issue of bodies and waste littering the Himalayas. Since records began, there have been over 300 deaths in the Everest region, and many of these bodies remain on the mountains. This year alone, eight climbers have lost their lives, and 18 fatalities were recorded in 2023, according to Nepal's tourism department. The Nepali government initiated a clean-up campaign in 2019, which included the removal of some deceased climbers. However, this year marked the first time that authorities set a specific goal to recover five bodies from the perilous 'death zone,' which is located above an altitude of 8,000 meters (26,247 feet). Ultimately, the team, which relied on a diet of water, chocolate, and sattu—a mixture of chickpea, barley, and wheat flour—was able to retrieve four bodies and one skeleton, along with 11 tonnes of rubbish from lower altitudes. The operation lasted 54 days and concluded on June 5. Major Aditya Karki, the leader of this year's mission, expressed concern over Nepal's negative reputation due to the garbage and dead bodies that have accumulated in the Himalayas. The clean-up campaign also aims to enhance safety for climbers, as many have been startled by the sight of bodies on their ascent. In fact, one climber last year was so shocked by the sight of a dead body that he was unable to move for half an hour. Tshiring Jangbu Sherpa takes pride in being part of this important clean-up effort. The financial burden of retrieving bodies from the mountains is a significant challenge for many families. Even if they have the means, most private companies refuse to assist in recovering bodies from the death zone due to the inherent dangers involved. This year, the military allocated five million rupees (approximately $37,400) to recover each body. The operation requires a team of twelve people to lower a body from 8,000 meters, with each climber needing four oxygen cylinders. The cost of one cylinder exceeds $400, meaning that the oxygen alone can amount to $20,000. Climbers have only about a 15-day window each year when it is safe to ascend and descend from such high altitudes, as the winds can become extremely fierce. In the death zone, wind speeds often exceed 100 kilometers per hour. After locating the bodies, the team primarily worked at night to avoid disturbing other climbers. The Everest region, which includes Lhotse and Nuptse, has only one ladder and ropeway for climbers to use when moving up and down from base camp. Tshiring described the challenges of bringing back the bodies from the death zone, stating, 'It was very tough to bring back the bodies from the death zone. I vomited sour water many times. Others kept coughing and others got headaches because we spent hours and hours at very high altitude. ' At 8,000 meters, even the strongest sherpas can carry only up to 25 kilograms (55 pounds), which is less than 30% of their capacity at lower altitudes. The bodies they recovered were in a frozen state, making transportation even more difficult. Nepali law requires that all bodies be returned in the best possible condition, as any damage could result in penalties. The clean-up team devised a roping system to gradually lower the bodies, as pushing or pulling them was not feasible. At times, the bodies became stuck in the rocky and icy terrain, making it a laborious task to extract them. It took the team 24 hours of continuous effort to bring the body presumed to belong to the Czech climber to the nearest camp, which was only about 3. 5 kilometers away. After that, they spent another 13 hours transporting the body to a lower camp. The next step was to transport the bodies to Kathmandu by helicopter, but they were delayed in Namche for five days due to bad weather. They finally arrived safely in the capital on June 4. The four bodies and the skeleton are currently being held at a hospital in Kathmandu. The army has found identification documents for two of the bodies—Czech climber Milan Sedlacek and American mountaineer Roland Yearwood, who died in 2017. The Nepali government is in contact with the respective embassies to inform the families. The identification process for the other two bodies is still ongoing. Sherpa climbers and guides keep track of the locations and possible identities of lost climbers, providing valuable information for the identification process. They believe that all the bodies belong to foreign climbers, but this has not been officially confirmed. Since records began, about 100 sherpas have also lost their lives in the Himalayas, leaving many families waiting for years to perform the last rites for their loved ones. Authorities have stated that if no one claims the bodies within three months of identification, they will be buried, regardless of whether the deceased are foreigners or Nepalis. Tshiring first climbed in the Himalayas at the age of 20 and has since scaled Everest three times and Lhotse five times. He believes that by participating in this important work of retrieving dead bodies, he is giving back to the Great Himalayas that have provided him with so many opportunities throughout his life.