Have Swiss scientists made a chocolate breakthrough?

In a remarkable development, scientists in Switzerland have made a significant breakthrough in chocolate production. Traditionally, chocolate makers have only used the beans from the cocoa fruit, discarding the rest of the fruit, which is akin to discarding a juicy apple while keeping only the seeds. However, a team of food scientists at Zurich’s Federal Institute of Technology, led by Kim Mishra, has discovered a method to utilize the entire cocoa fruit, including the pulp, juice, and husk, to create chocolate without the need for added sugar. This innovative approach has garnered attention from sustainable food companies, as it addresses the issue of waste in cocoa production. The cocoa fruit, which is roughly the size of a pumpkin, is often left to rot in the fields, despite being rich in nutrients. The key to this new chocolate lies in the sweet juice extracted from the fruit, which Mr. Mishra describes as 'very fruity, a bit like pineapple. ' This juice, containing 14% sugar, is distilled into a concentrated syrup that is then combined with the pulp and dried husk to create a sweet cocoa gel. When this gel is mixed with cocoa beans, it eliminates the need for sugar altogether. Mr. Mishra views his invention as part of a long tradition of innovation in Swiss chocolate making. He references the 19th-century chocolatier Rudolf Lindt, who accidentally discovered the process of 'conching'—a method of rolling warm cocoa mass to achieve a smooth texture—by leaving a mixer running overnight. The result was a deliciously smooth chocolate that has become a hallmark of Swiss confectionery. 'You need to be innovative to maintain your product category,' Mr. Mishra asserts, emphasizing the importance of creativity in chocolate production. He has partnered with KOA, a Swiss start-up focused on sustainable cocoa farming. Anian Schreiber, co-founder of KOA, believes that utilizing the entire cocoa fruit could address several challenges facing the cocoa industry, including rising cocoa bean prices and the poverty experienced by many cocoa farmers. 'Instead of fighting over who gets how much of the cake, you make the cake bigger and make everybody benefit,' he explains. By incorporating cocoa pulp into the production process, farmers can earn additional income, and the processing can occur in the country of origin, creating jobs and adding value locally. The traditional model of chocolate production, where farmers in regions like Africa or South America sell their cocoa beans to large chocolate companies in wealthier nations, is increasingly viewed as unsustainable. This perspective is echoed by Letizia Pinoja, a chocolate historian, who highlights Switzerland's colonial past and its connection to the cocoa trade. Although Switzerland did not have colonies of its own, Swiss mercenaries and ship owners were involved in the exploitation of other countries' resources. Pinoja argues that without the trade of colonial goods, Switzerland would not have become the chocolate capital it is today. She points out that cocoa, like other colonial goods, has a history tied to slavery and exploitation. In contemporary times, the chocolate industry is subject to stricter regulations aimed at ensuring ethical practices. Producers are required to monitor their supply chains to prevent child labor, and starting next year, all chocolate imported into the European Union must guarantee that no deforestation occurred in the cultivation of the cocoa used. However, challenges persist, particularly in Africa, where cases of child labor and deforestation remain prevalent. Roger Wehrli, director of Chocosuisse, the association of Swiss chocolate manufacturers, expresses concern that some companies may simply relocate their production to South America to avoid these issues. 'Does this solve the problem in Africa? No,' he states, advocating for responsible firms to remain in Africa and contribute to improving conditions there. Mr. Wehrli views the new chocolate developed in Zurich as a promising solution. By utilizing the entire cocoa fruit, farmers can achieve better prices for their products, which is economically beneficial for them. Additionally, this approach is ecologically sound, as it reduces waste and promotes sustainability. Anian Schreiber emphasizes the environmental impact of food production, noting that a significant portion of agricultural produce is wasted. In the case of cocoa, the waste is even more pronounced when only the beans are used. 'It's like you throw away the apple and just use its seeds,' he remarks. Reducing food waste is crucial in the fight against climate change, and while chocolate may not be a major contributor, both Schreiber and Wehrli believe that this new method could be a step in the right direction. However, questions remain about the new chocolate's cost and taste. Without sugar, what will it taste like? Surprisingly, the chocolate has a rich, dark flavor with a hint of sweetness and a touch of cocoa bitterness, making it a delightful treat. The challenge lies in the cost, as sugar is heavily subsidized and remains the cheapest ingredient in food production. Mr. Mishra explains that while a ton of sugar costs around $500, cocoa pulp and juice are more expensive, meaning the new chocolate may be pricier for the time being. Nevertheless, chocolate producers from various countries have expressed interest in this innovative method. In Switzerland, some larger companies, including Lindt, are beginning to incorporate cocoa fruit into their products, but none have completely eliminated sugar yet. Mr. Mishra is eager to find adventurous chocolate makers willing to test the market and contribute to a more sustainable chocolate industry. Switzerland, known for producing 200,000 tons of chocolate annually, has a bright future ahead. Mr. Wehrli remains optimistic, believing that chocolate will continue to taste fantastic and that demand will grow as the global population increases. And yes, he confidently asserts, people will still be enjoying Swiss chocolate.