Maeshowe: The UK's doorway to another world
For millennia, our ancestors have sought comfort in the winter solstice. This belief is still manifested today in the awe-inspiring sight of the sun setting on Maeshowe tomb in Orkney, an archipelago located 10 miles off Scotland's north-eastern coast. Orkney is a historical treasure trove, boasting renowned sites such as the Neolithic village Skara Brae and the Ring of Brodgar, a mesmerising stone circle that served as a site of ritual and ceremony. However, upon my visit to another of Orkney's famed prehistoric sites, the Maeshowe tomb, my initial impression was of an unremarkable green mound encircled by a ditch.
Despite its unassuming appearance, this 5,000-year-old burial cairn is a testament to the ancient design and engineering prowess of Orkney's prehistoric inhabitants. Around the winter solstice, which occurs on 21 or 22 December each year, visitors have the opportunity to witness a truly magical phenomenon here. The narrow passage leading into the tomb becomes more than just an entrance: it was intentionally designed to align with the setting of the midwinter sun. As the last rays begin to fade, a shaft of light creeps down the passageway, glides across the tomb's floor, and illuminates the back wall, creating a golden, glowing portal to another realm.
The winter solstice is a crucial time of year, and Maeshowe represents thousands of hours of gruelling labour. If you're present when the sun sets at the right time, the sight is awe-inspiring. It evokes a hushed atmosphere, akin to being in a cathedral. Maeshowe is open to visitors year-round, with particular interest around the winter solstice. Due to limited capacity, it is strongly recommended to book a tour online in advance. Thousands of years ago, Maeshowe would have served as a beacon of hope for locals grappling with the depths of winter. The stark contrast of the dark tomb being suddenly transformed would reassure them that the days would soon slowly start to lengthen. The light would have served as a reminder of the re-emergence of life on Earth in spring, and perhaps also the tantalising promise of eternal life in another world.
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"The entrance to the tomb lines up with the setting sun."
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"Thousands of years ago, the Maeshowe tomb would have helped people deal with the long, dark winter days."
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