The specialty coffee wave sweeping small-town India

In recent years, coffee has been gaining popularity in small towns across India, particularly in regions where tea has long been the preferred beverage. One notable example is Harmanpreet Singh, who made a significant career change by leaving his family's bakery to open a specialty coffee shop called Buland Café in Jalandhar, a city in northern India. This decision was quite unexpected, as coffee has traditionally been more popular in southern states, where it is typically served strong and frothy in steel tumblers. However, Mr. Singh recognized a growing interest in specialty coffee, especially among the youth and returning expatriates during the Covid-19 pandemic. To capitalize on this trend, he traveled to Bengaluru to learn the art of brewing coffee. 'I studied everything - from the way coffee is served to the role things like decor, cutlery, music, and even packaging played in the overall experience,' he explained. After three months of training, he opened Buland Café, which has since expanded to 40 locations throughout Jalandhar, becoming a favorite hangout for young people looking to relax or work while enjoying a hot cup of coffee. The café sources its beans from the renowned coffee estates of Karnataka, and Mr. Singh personally trained his staff to ensure they could brew the perfect cup. 'It's a thriving scene,' he remarked, highlighting the growing coffee culture in the region. The coffee culture in India has a rich history that dates back to the 1900s when Indian Coffee Houses emerged as popular meeting spots for intellectuals and the elite. These cafés, often housed in colonial-style buildings, served English breakfasts alongside steaming cups of coffee, providing a space for discussions about politics and social issues. The landscape began to shift in the 1990s when economic reforms opened India to global markets, allowing entrepreneurs to establish private coffee shops that attracted young patrons seeking a trendy experience. The arrival of Starbucks in India in 2012 further fueled the growth of homegrown specialty coffee brands, such as Third Wave Coffee and Subko Coffee. While major cities like Delhi, Jaipur, Mumbai, and Bengaluru continue to dominate the coffee scene, smaller towns are quickly catching up. The changing preferences of consumers are not the only factors driving the rise of coffee consumption in India. Social media also plays a significant role, as people increasingly seek out aesthetically pleasing coffee shops where they can enjoy their drinks and share their experiences online. Nishant Sinha, who owns Roastery Coffee House in Lucknow, recognized this trend early on. His café offers a trendy ambiance, free Wi-Fi, and comfortable seating, along with a diverse selection of coffee roasts. While the beans are sourced from southern coffee estates, the food served is distinctly north Indian. Other café owners, like Jatin Khurana in Ludhiana, are experimenting with flavors to attract customers. Khurana's Urban Buhkkad café features a unique drink called 'Shadi Wali Coffee,' which is inspired by a popular wedding beverage from the 1990s. Instead of using instant coffee, he incorporates freshly ground beans to enhance the flavor. Despite the excitement surrounding the coffee industry, challenges remain for small café owners. As demand for specialty coffee grows, some owners may cut corners by using subpar equipment or hiring inexperienced baristas, which can compromise the quality of their offerings. Additionally, the high cost of coffee and the expenses associated with running a café can make it difficult for some businesses to remain profitable. Neha Das and Nishant Ashish, who opened The Eden’s Café in Ranchi in 2021, aimed to create a safe and inviting space for students. Their hazelnut coffee and cold brews have become popular among locals. 'It took some time, but longevity requires more than profit,' Ms. Das stated. 'It’s about dedication, crafting local flavors, and understanding customers, even if it means working with slim profit margins for the long haul.