Why are more clothes than ever being discarded?

The issue of discarded clothing is becoming increasingly significant, with more garments being thrown away than ever before. A recycling center in Bolton, Greater Manchester, has reported a dramatic increase in the volume of clothing it processes. Last year alone, the center received approximately 15,500 tonnes of clothing, a staggering amount that highlights the growing problem of textile waste. This influx of clothing primarily comes from charity shops and local textile bins, but there is a rising concern that a substantial portion of these garments cannot be recycled. The primary culprit behind this trend is the phenomenon known as fast fashion, which refers to the rapid production and sale of low-quality clothing that closely follows current fashion trends. Fast fashion items are typically not designed to last, and as a result, they are not made with recycling in mind. Peter Page, the head of recycling and sustainability at the center, explained that the design of clothing today often prioritizes immediate consumption over long-term use and recyclability. Many consumers mistakenly believe that old clothes can be recycled in the same way as plastic bottles, but this is not the case. Clothes labeled as 'recycled polyester' are often made from plastic bottles rather than from old clothing, complicating the recycling process. When clothing arrives at the recycling center, workers sort the items based on quality, category, and color. For the clothes to be reused or recycled, they must be clean and dry. Mr. Page noted that around 75 percent of the clothing received can be reused and is sold to wholesalers worldwide. The garments that are unsuitable for reuse are often repurposed into products like carpet underlay, noise insulation, or cleaning cloths for the oil and gas industry. However, about three percent of the clothing that cannot be reused or recycled ends up being incinerated. The recycling center is experiencing increased demand each year, but the declining quality of incoming clothing poses challenges for reuse. In response to this growing issue, community members are taking action to promote better habits. Valery Touchet, for instance, has initiated free sewing classes in Oldham to teach individuals how to repurpose old clothing instead of discarding it. She observed a shift from a culture of hand-me-downs to one of 'buying and throwing away. ' Valery believes that educating people on how to reuse their existing clothing can make a significant difference. Her classes have fostered a sense of community among participants, many of whom appreciate the camaraderie and skills they are acquiring. Additionally, the Manchester Fashion Movement is actively working to raise awareness about sustainable fashion. They engage with schools, host panel discussions, and organize pop-up exhibitions and fashion shows that convey educational messages about responsible clothing consumption. Alison Carlin, a member of the movement, aims to support local talent and empower attendees with knowledge they can share with others. At home, individuals can contribute to reducing clothing waste by avoiding the disposal of garments in regular household bins, as this often leads to landfills. Instead, it is advisable to utilize local textile bins or donate clothing to charity shops. Dr. Patsy Perry, a fashion marketing expert at Manchester Metropolitan University, acknowledges the challenges of maintaining sustainability in a world where new clothing is heavily marketed. She emphasizes the importance of wearing what we already own and avoiding the purchase of items that will only be worn once. Exploring alternatives such as charity shopping or luxury reselling can also be beneficial. Valery Touchet encourages individuals to examine their wardrobes for items that can be recycled or repurposed. She offers her assistance in helping people learn how to refashion and reuse their clothing creatively. For example, a dress can be transformed into a blouse or a skirt. Charity shops are experiencing a surge in donations, which is a positive development in the fight against clothing waste. Furthermore, initiatives are underway to address the issue of textile waste more comprehensively. A project led by Manchester Metropolitan University is collecting surplus clothing from across Greater Manchester to assess its potential for reuse or recycling. Preliminary findings indicate that more than half of the textiles examined were categorized as high-quality and reusable, while a smaller proportion was deemed low quality but still reusable. Less than a third of the clothing was classified as non-reusable. As part of this project, textiles processed at the Bolton sorting center are being scanned to determine their material composition. The goal is to identify how many garments can be recycled into new textiles or repurposed for other uses, ultimately reducing the amount of clothing that goes to waste.