London Fashion Week is 40 - but can it stay relevant?

London Fashion Week is celebrating its 40th anniversary this year, and it is doing so by showcasing the latest trends and styles from over 250 designers. This event is a significant part of the fashion world and is recognized as one of the Big Four fashion weeks, alongside New York, Milan, and Paris. The event has a rich history that began with Lynne Franks, a public relations expert who wanted to highlight the fashion talent in London. She found a large lawn outside the Commonwealth Institute, now known as the Design Museum, where she could set up a tent to host the first fashion shows. This initial location was perfect for launching young designers and models, but after three seasons, they had to move because the tent was sinking into the ground. They relocated to Duke of York’s Barracks in Sloane Square, which is now the Saatchi Gallery. This new venue provided more space for creativity, but it also required more funding, which Franks successfully secured from her clients. As London Fashion Week gained popularity, it attracted many high-profile attendees, including Diana, Princess of Wales, Boy George, and Madonna. The late 1980s saw the runway debuts of Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss, who would go on to become two of the most famous models in the world. However, the early 1990s brought economic challenges, leading to reduced funding for the event. In response, the British Fashion Council established the NexGen scheme in 1993 to support and mentor young designers. One of the first beneficiaries of this program was the talented Alexander McQueen. Fashion critic Sarah Mower, who is an ambassador for the British Fashion Council's emerging talent, noted that London Fashion Week is distinguished by its focus on young, innovative designers. She stated, 'London produces young, individualist designers from all over the UK and who belong to multiple cultures. London supports and seeks out emerging talent like no other city. ' Fast forward to today, and London Fashion Week continues to serve as a platform for showcasing new ideas in fashion, including colors, styles, and fabrics. This year, the event is also emphasizing sustainability in the fashion industry. In collaboration with the British Fashion Council, eBay organized a show featuring vintage pieces that sparked conversations in previous fashion weeks. After the show, these items were made available for purchase on their website. Model Leomie Anderson, who co-hosted the show, expressed her commitment to making fashion more environmentally friendly. She believes that if an item looks good, it should be purchased, regardless of whether it is new or pre-owned. Anderson pointed out that the quality of vintage clothing often surpasses that of fast fashion items. She shared that her favorite pieces from the show were designed by Vivienne Westwood and Stella McCartney, emphasizing that vintage clothing has a rightful place in fashion weeks. 'Society can be very trends-driven, so people feel the need to buy new things all the time when in reality trends often repeat themselves,' she explained. The eBay show was just one part of the event, which also included the Oxfam Style for Change catwalk. This focus on sustainability is particularly important as fast fashion remains popular in the UK. A recent report revealed that individuals in Britain discard around 35 items of clothing each year, often opting to throw them away instead of donating or selling them. Anderson highlighted that vintage clothing is not only better for the environment but also allows individuals to discover unique pieces that reflect their personal style. As London Fashion Week marks its 40th birthday, there are concerns about whether it still holds the same global appeal as it once did. Some British designers have chosen to showcase their collections in other cities, such as Paris and New York, while Milan has also gained prominence in recent years. Victoria Beckham, who was once a regular at London Fashion Week, made the decision to present her collections in Paris starting in 2022 and has continued to do so. Additionally, several British menswear designers, including Craig Green, Bianca Saunders, and Grace Wales Bonner, have opted to move their shows to Milan, which is attracting creative talent from around the world. One reason for this shift is the tax incentives offered in Milan for remote workers, making it easier for non-EU nationals to relocate to Italy if they meet certain income requirements. However, not all designers are leaving London. Renowned brands like Burberry, Erdem, and JW Anderson have firmly established London as the place to debut their Spring Summer 2025 collections. Furthermore, the theatrical indie brand Puppets & Puppets, which has spent the last five years making waves on New York runways, has chosen London as its new base. While some established British designers may be exploring other options, London Fashion Week remains a vital platform for launching new careers. The British Fashion Council's NewGen scheme continues to provide opportunities for emerging designers, and this year, a new showcasing space has been introduced for the event.