My trip to North Korea's 'Benidorm' - flanked by guards and full of rules

Anastasia Samsonova, a 33-year-old human resources worker from Russia, recently became one of the first tourists to visit North Korea's new Wonsan Kalma Coastal Tourist Zone. This resort, located on the country's east coast, is in an area where North Korean leader Kim Jong Un spent much of his youth. The resort opened on July 1 and features hotels, restaurants, shopping malls, and a water park, according to North Korean state media. However, the experience was far from a typical beach vacation. Anastasia and her group of 14 were accompanied at all times by security guards and guides, who made sure they followed a strict schedule and did not interact with local people. The guards explained that their presence was necessary to prevent the tourists from startling North Korean citizens, who are not used to seeing foreigners because the country has been closed off for so long.

The group was given clear instructions: they were not allowed to take photos of construction sites or wear revealing clothing. Despite these restrictions, Anastasia found the beaches to be beautiful and almost empty. She described the sand as white and perfectly clean, with new sun loungers and a gentle entrance to the sea. The resort was immaculate, and she enjoyed the peace and quiet of having the beach almost to herself. Meals included lots of meat, usually served in sweet and sour sauce, and vegetables like cabbage and carrots. Beer was very cheap, and the most popular souvenir among tourists was North Korean Olympic clothing. Toy rockets were also sold near the resort for about $40 each, a nod to the nearby missile testing site.

International tourism to North Korea had stopped during the Covid pandemic, but last year, Russian tourists were allowed to visit again. In February, tourists from other countries like Australia, France, Germany, and the UK were briefly allowed in, but this was quickly stopped without explanation. The resort is part of Kim Jong Un's plan to boost tourism in North Korea, inspired by the Spanish city of Benidorm. However, there are concerns about how the resort was built. Human rights groups have reported forced labor, harsh working conditions, and people being forced out of their homes. Only Russian tourists are currently allowed to visit, and even they face difficulties getting permission. The North Korean government closely controls the number of tourists and their movements, partly to prevent locals from comparing themselves to wealthier foreigners. Despite these challenges, Anastasia hopes to return next year and possibly visit a nearby ski resort. She enjoyed the clean, quiet beaches and the unique experience of visiting a country that is so closed to the outside world.