Eating on the hoof: London's long history of street food

Street food has a rich and diverse history in London, showcasing a variety of flavors and cultures. From Ethiopian stews to Egyptian falafel, the city offers a global culinary experience right on the streets. London is home to some of the best street food markets in the UK, including Borough Market, Broadway Market, and Seven Dials. According to the Nationwide Caterers Association, the street food movement began in London and has since spread across the country, making it a common sight in many towns and cities. Street food has been a part of London life for centuries, providing warm and affordable meals for those without kitchens. Vendors have long sold a range of foods, from hearty soups to unique delicacies like eel jelly and boiled pigs' trotters. Let's explore some of the fascinating foods that have been enjoyed on the streets of London throughout its history. Oysters are one of the most iconic street foods in London, having transitioned from a cheap meal for the poor to a luxury item favored by the wealthy. These delicious shellfish have been consumed in London since Roman times, with evidence of oyster shells found in archaeological digs. In the 1840s, journalist Henry Mayhew reported that costermongers sold an astonishing 24 million oysters each year, with prices as low as four for a penny. Oyster Day, celebrated at the beginning of August, marked the arrival of fresh oysters in the markets and was a significant event for the city's poorer residents. This day also led to the creation of Grotto Day, where street children would build grottos from oyster shells and ask passersby for money. These grottos, illuminated by candles, created a charming sight on the streets. Another notable street food is watercress, which was affectionately dubbed 'poor man's bread' by the Victorians. Street vendors would sell bunches of this peppery green plant, which is packed with nutrients. Watercress has remained largely unchanged over the centuries and is still a popular ingredient in sandwiches served at some of London's finest hotels. It is known for its high vitamin C content, surpassing that of oranges, and its calcium content is greater than that of milk. Watercress is not only beneficial for consumption but can also be used in skincare. Broxy, a less appetizing dish, refers to meat from animals that died from disease, often used as a cheap source of protein for those in need. Pigs' trotters were another popular street food, easily eaten by hand. In the 19th century, a thick soup known as London Particular became a staple in the city's street food scene. Made from yellow split peas and ham, this hearty soup was so thick that a spoon could stand upright in it. The name 'London Particular' was inspired by the dense yellow fog that often enveloped the city, a result of coal fires and industrial pollution. This soup was a comforting meal for many Londoners, often sold at stalls and taverns. Ice cream vendors, known as Hokey Pokey sellers, also played a significant role in London's street food culture. These vendors would sell ice cream from carts that were divided to accommodate both gelato and baked chestnuts. The term 'Hokey Pokey' is derived from the Italian phrase 'ecco uno poco,' meaning 'here is a little. ' Customers could purchase a small serving of ice cream in a glass called a penny lick, which was reused for each customer, often without proper cleaning. This practice was eventually banned in 1898 due to health concerns. Eel jelly, a unique dish, was another popular street food. Unlike jellied eel, eel jelly is served hot and has a liquid consistency. In the early 1900s, it was common to see long lines of customers waiting to buy eel jelly, especially on cold nights. The jelly is created by cooking eels and allowing the proteins to solidify as it cools. The history of street food in London is a testament to the city's vibrant culinary culture, and it continues to thrive today, offering a delicious array of options for those on the go.