The little-known history of Champagne

In 19th Century France, women were prohibited from owning businesses. However, three widows, who were exempt from this rule, established some of the most renowned Champagne empires. These women were Barbe-Nicole Clicquot-Ponsardin, Louise Pommery, and Lily Bollinger. As we prepare to usher in a new year, we revisit the stories of these innovative women who revolutionized the Champagne industry.

In the north-eastern French city of Reims, a gated chateau stands amidst winding roads. Beneath this chateau lies an extensive network of cellars spanning over 200 kilometers. These cellars house millions of Champagne bottles, some of which are upside down, while others are stored in small caves. This is the epicenter of the global Champagne market. Historically, these cellars were dominated by widows.

These women brought about significant innovations in the Champagne industry. They exploited a loophole in the Napoleonic Code, which restricted women from owning businesses without the consent of a husband or father. Barbe-Nicole Ponsardin, for instance, took over her husband's small textile and wine business after his death. This was an unconventional decision for a woman of her social standing. However, she leveraged her status as a widow to market her Champagne, a strategy that proved successful. She also introduced a new technique called 'riddling' in the Champagne-making process, which is still in use today.