Ireland's Grape Escape: From Stout to Sparkling Wine Dreams

When most people think of drinks from Ireland, they picture a pint of creamy stout or a glass of whiskey. Wine is probably not the first thing that comes to mind. However, the Republic of Ireland is officially recognized as a wine-producing country by the European Commission. While there are only a few commercial vineyards and some smaller growers experimenting with wine, the amount of land used for vineyards is increasing. A new winery near Slane in County Meath has planted about 36,000 vines on 30 hectares, making it the largest vineyard in Ireland so far.

David Llewellyn is one of the original winemakers in Ireland. He started growing grapes in the late 1980s, planting different types to see which would survive. In 2002, he founded Lusca vineyard in County Dublin, and now produces between 1,500 and 2,000 bottles of wine each year. Llewellyn says that Irish wine is still a novelty for many people. He has found that only a few types of grapes grow well in Ireland, especially a red grape called rondo and a white grape called Madeline Angevine. He points out that Ireland’s climate is much more challenging for grape growing than England’s. While England can grow many classic grape varieties like pinot noir and chardonnay, Ireland’s weather makes it almost impossible. Still, some people try to grow these grapes, but Llewellyn believes it is better to focus on varieties that are proven to work. He enjoys meeting new winemakers and sharing his knowledge, encouraging them to plant the right grapes in the right places.

Further south in County Waterford, David Dennison started Viking Winery in 2009 with just 30 rondo vines. Now, he has three and a half hectares and grows 14 different grape varieties, including red, white, and sparkling wines. All his grapes are hybrids, which means they are created by crossing different grape species. Dennison believes hybrids are the future for Irish wine because they are disease-resistant and do not need chemical sprays. He says the flavors from these wines are amazing and perfect for Ireland’s climate. Dennison’s winery produces between 2,500 and 3,000 bottles a year, but he hopes to reach 15,000 bottles as his vines mature. He is also starting an Irish winemakers’ association, which already has nearly 30 potential members.

Growing grapes in Ireland is not easy. The weather can be unpredictable, and spring frosts are a big threat. Winemakers use burners and candles to protect their vines from frost, especially to save the early white grapes. Climate change expert Professor John Sweeney says he is not surprised that vineyards are appearing in Ireland, and he expects wine production to become more common as summers get warmer and drier. Most vineyards are on the east coast, where the soil is sandy and drains well. Sweeney thinks that while vineyards may not spread quickly, more areas could become suitable for grape growing by the end of the century. David Llewellyn hopes the Irish wine industry will grow carefully, focusing on quality rather than quantity. He warns that fake Irish wine could damage the industry’s reputation. David Dennison says many people in Ireland do not even know about Irish wine yet, but he believes that will change as the industry grows. For now, there is not enough Irish wine to meet demand, but that could change in the future.