Inside the ancient Indian ritual where humans become gods

In the southern Indian state of Kerala, a fascinating and ancient tradition known as Theyyam captivates both locals and visitors alike. This unique ritual is not merely a performance; it is a profound act of devotion that transforms the performers into living embodiments of the divine. Each year, during the vibrant Onam festival, Theyyam artists don elaborate costumes and paint their faces in striking colors, preparing to take on the roles of various gods and goddesses. The roots of Theyyam can be traced back thousands of years, predating Hinduism itself, while also intertwining with Hindu mythology. The performances are a blend of theatrical spectacle and spiritual expression, where the predominantly male performers engage in trance-like dances, mime, and music, creating an electrifying atmosphere that draws large crowds. The Theyyam season typically runs from October to April, coinciding with the post-monsoon and winter months. During this time, numerous performances are held in family estates and venues near temples, particularly in the northern districts of Kerala, such as Kannur and Kasaragod. Each performance carries its own theme, often honoring deified ancestors, celebrating warrior-hunter deities, or venerating tiger spirits that symbolize strength and protection. Before a Theyyam performance begins, a series of rituals are conducted to invite the spirit of the deity into the performance space. For instance, prior to honoring a local goddess, the performers may conduct a ceremony in a nearby forest, which is considered the earthly home of the goddess. This ritual emphasizes the deep connection between Theyyam and nature, showcasing the reverence for the environment that is inherent in this tradition. Mr. Gopalakrishnan, a historian and member of the Nambiar community, has dedicated his efforts to preserving the legacy of Theyyam through his family's ancestral home, where performances have taken place for nearly 300 years. In his community, the senior-most maternal uncle oversees the arrangements for the performances, ensuring that the traditions are upheld. If he is unable to fulfill this role due to age or illness, the next senior male member steps in to take charge. Women in the family also play a crucial role in the rituals, preparing for the events and ensuring that everything runs smoothly. Their contributions are highly respected, as they are integral to maintaining the family's legacy and the rich traditions of Theyyam. The performances themselves are a whirlwind of energy, filled with loud cries, fiery torches, and intense scenes that draw upon epic tales and dramatic dances. The performers often engage in daring feats, such as fire-walking and diving into burning embers, which can take a physical toll on their bodies. The use of fire in Theyyam is significant, symbolizing purification, divine energy, and the transformative power of the ritual. Some performers interact directly with fire, walking through flames or carrying burning torches, which signifies the deity's invincibility and supernatural abilities. This dramatic element adds to the spiritual atmosphere of the performance, illustrating the deity's power over natural forces. The deities represented in Theyyam can take many forms, including gods and goddesses, ancestral spirits, animals, or even natural forces. For example, a performer may embody Raktheswari, a fierce manifestation of Kali, the Hindu goddess of destruction. The portrayal of Kali is intense, often depicted drenched in blood, symbolizing her raw energy and destructive force. Through dramatic costumes and ritualistic dance, the performance channels Kali's potent energy, invoking themes of protection, justice, and spiritual cleansing. The transformation of the artist into the deity is a significant aspect of Theyyam, as performers meticulously prepare their costumes and body paint, ensuring that every detail reflects the deity they are embodying. The vibrant colors and intricate designs of the makeup and costumes are carefully crafted to symbolize the unique characteristics of each deity. Some Theyyam performances may not require face painting but instead utilize masks to represent the divine figures. The animistic roots of Theyyam shine through in its deep respect for nature and its creatures. For instance, a performer may take on the role of a crocodile deity, symbolizing the power of reptiles and serving as a protector against their dangers. This connection to nature is a vital aspect of Theyyam, highlighting humanity's relationship with the environment. After the performance, the deity blesses the gathered congregation of devotees, creating a sacred space where individuals can unburden their troubles and seek solace. This moment of spiritual release intertwines devotion and vulnerability, allowing participants to connect with the divine in a meaningful way. Theyyam is a remarkable tradition that continues to thrive in Kerala, showcasing the rich cultural heritage and spiritual beliefs of the region.