'Do they have gold in them?': The Indian artisans up in arms over Prada's sandals

Kolhapur, a town in western India, is famous for its traditional leather sandals known as Kolhapuris. These sandals have a long history, dating back to the 12th century, and are made by skilled artisans who use their hands and simple tools to create each pair. The process is slow and requires a lot of effort, with one artisan making only eight to ten pairs in a day. Despite the hard work, the sandals are sold for just eight to ten dollars each, and the artisans often struggle with low wages and poor working conditions. Today, only about five thousand artisans in Kolhapur continue this craft, as many young people do not want to follow in their parents’ footsteps due to the challenges involved.

Recently, the Italian luxury brand Prada released a new line of sandals that looked very similar to Kolhapuri sandals. However, Prada did not mention the origin of the design, which upset the artisans and people in Kolhapur. The issue quickly gained attention on social media, with many accusing Prada of cultural appropriation—using another culture’s design without giving credit. Local politicians and industry groups have started supporting the artisans, demanding that their work and cultural heritage be recognized and respected.

The Kolhapuri sandals were originally made by the Charmakar community, a group that worked with animal hides and was often marginalized in society. In the early 20th century, the ruler of Kolhapur supported this community, helping the craft to grow. Today, around one hundred thousand artisans across India are involved in making these sandals, and the industry is worth over two hundred million dollars. However, most artisans still work in small, unorganized workshops and earn very little. Women play a key role in the production, especially in creating the detailed patterns on the sandals, but they are often underpaid for their work.

The artisans also face other challenges. The cost of leather has increased, especially after new laws in Maharashtra banned cow slaughter, making it harder to get the materials they need. Many cheap, synthetic copies of Kolhapuri sandals are now available, making it difficult for traditional artisans to compete. The Indian government has given Kolhapuri sandals a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, which protects the name and design within India, but there is no international law to stop other brands from copying the style.

Some experts believe that India should push for stronger international rules to protect its traditional crafts. Others think that if big brands like Prada use Kolhapuri designs, it could actually help the artisans by making their work more popular, as long as the artisans receive a fair share of the profits. There is now a court case asking Prada to pay damages and work with the artisans. Prada has said it is in talks with the local industry group about the issue. The artisans hope that this controversy will lead to more respect, better pay, and a brighter future for their traditional craft.