A Chicago pizza expert's guide to the city's best pies
Steve Dolinsky, a renowned food journalist and 13-time James Beard Award winner, wants to set the record straight about Chicago pizza. While many people outside of Chicago think of deep-dish pizza when they hear 'Chicago-style,' Dolinsky emphasizes that the city is home to three iconic styles: deep-dish, stuffed, and Chicago thin-crust, also known as tavern-style. Dolinsky, who reports on food for NBC 5 News in Chicago and has authored a book on the subject, explains that the story of Chicago pizza actually begins with tavern-style pizza. In the 1940s, bartenders in Chicago started making thin-crust pizzas to encourage patrons to buy more beer. These pizzas were cut into squares and served on cocktail napkins. The deep-dish pizza was invented in 1943 by Ike Sewell and Ric Riccardo, who used cake pans to create a pizza with a thick crust, cheese, toppings, and a chunky tomato sauce. This led to the opening of The Pizzeria, which later became famous. In 1971, Rocco Palese introduced the stuffed pizza at Nancy's, inspired by his mother's Italian stuffed pie. Dolinsky notes that many people mistakenly think stuffed pizza is just a type of deep-dish, but it has its own unique characteristics. Dolinsky's favorite thin-crust pizza comes from Pat's Pizzeria, which opened in 1950. Pat's uses a special dough that is proofed overnight and then flattened into very thin sheets. The pizza is topped with sauce, cheese, and fennel sausage, creating a crispy and flavorful crust. Another standout thin-crust pizza is from Vito & Nick's Pizzeria, which started as a tavern in 1923. Their pizza features a thin layer of tomato sauce, Italian sausage, and mozzarella cheese, with a crispy, charred bottom. Pizza Matta, owned by James Beard award-winning chef Jason Vincent, also offers an excellent thin-crust pizza. Vincent started making pizza during the pandemic and now serves both East Coast-style and tavern-style pizzas. His tavern-style pizza is thin and crispy, topped with a special cheese from Wisconsin. For deep-dish pizza, Dolinsky recommends My Pi, founded in 1971. My Pi uses a secret spice mix in their tomato sauce, making it a great option for vegetarians. Lou Malnati's is another iconic deep-dish pizza place, known for its sturdy crust made with plenty of oil. The pizza is topped with mozzarella cheese and a chunky tomato sauce. Labriola, opened by former commercial baker Rich Labriola in 2014, offers a unique deep-dish pizza with dough that is fermented for two to three days. This process makes the dough airy and light. George's Deep-Dish is known for its flavorful crust, made with a natural sourdough starter and inspired by Greek flatbread. The owner, George Bumbaris, takes a fine-dining approach to pizza, using high-quality ingredients and creative names for his pies. Nancy's is famous for its stuffed pizza, which is very filling and heavy. Dolinsky advises eating only one or two slices. Chicago's diverse pizza scene offers something for everyone, whether you prefer thin-crust, deep-dish, or stuffed pizza. Each pizzeria has its own unique style and flavors, making Chicago a must-visit destination for pizza lovers.
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"Steve Dolinsky, a famous food journalist, wants everyone to know that Chicago pizza is not just about deep-dish."
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"In the 1940s, bartenders in Chicago started making thin-crust pizzas to sell more beer."
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