Bussana Vecchia: The battle over Italy's eclectic, handbuilt village

Bussana Vecchia is a unique village in Italy that was destroyed by an earthquake in 1887. The earthquake turned the village into a ghost town, but in the 1950s, a group of artists decided to rebuild it. They used the ruins to create new homes and workshops, and today, Bussana Vecchia is a popular tourist destination. However, the residents are now facing eviction.

Nina Franco is one of the newest residents of Bussana Vecchia. She moved to the village in 2022 after spending 20 years in Argentina. Nina is a puppet maker, and her house doubles as her workshop. She explains that everyone in the village has had to build their own house. The village is home to a diverse community of artists from all over the world. You can hear people speaking French, German, Russian, and Spanish.

The history of Bussana Vecchia is both tragic and fascinating. On February 23, 1887, an earthquake struck the village, destroying the upper section and killing 53 people. Many of the victims were in church when the earthquake occurred. The village was abandoned, and a new village, Bussana Nuova, was built nearby. Over the years, various groups of people moved into the old village, but they were always evicted by local authorities. In the late 1950s, an artist named Mario Giani had the idea to turn the village into an artists' commune. Gradually, more artists joined him, and they rebuilt the village by hand.

Today, Bussana Vecchia is a blend of old and new. Some houses are crumbling, while others are well-maintained with flowers and colorful curtains. The village has a playful and artistic atmosphere, with paintings and sculptures scattered throughout. The old church remains roofless and overgrown with grass.

Despite its charm, Bussana Vecchia is under threat. In 2017, residents received letters stating that they had no legal right to their homes and were considered illegal squatters. In response, the villagers formed a collective called 'i Resilienti' to fight for their homes. They want to be recognized as the rightful owners of the houses they rebuilt. The authorities suggested a public auction, but the villagers fear they might lose their homes.

The village has changed significantly since the 1950s. It now has modern amenities like electricity, running water, and Wi-Fi. There are several restaurants and a local bar that attracts tourists. However, the residents worry that if the authorities take control, the village will lose its unique bohemian spirit. Some residents want property rights, while others are content with paying a symbolic rent to stay in their homes.

The battle for Bussana Vecchia continues. The villagers are determined to protect the spirit of open-mindedness and freedom that has defined the village for the past 60 years. They fear that the village will become just another tourist attraction. For now, Bussana Vecchia remains a special place, rich in art and history.