Why Prada – and other luxury brands – keep getting India wrong

Recently, the Italian luxury brand Prada found itself at the center of a controversy after it showcased sandals in its Milan fashion show that looked almost exactly like the traditional Kolhapuri sandals from India. These sandals have been made by hand in the town of Kolhapur in Maharashtra for centuries, and they are an important part of Indian culture. However, Prada did not mention the origin of the design in its collection, which upset many people who felt that the brand was taking credit for something that belonged to Indian artisans.

As the backlash grew, Prada released a statement acknowledging that the sandals were inspired by Indian tradition. The company said it was open to having a meaningful conversation with the local artisans who make Kolhapuri sandals. In response, Prada sent a team to Kolhapur to meet with the artisans and shopkeepers who create and sell these sandals. They also met with the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry & Agriculture, a major trade group in the region. Prada said the meeting was successful and hinted that they might work with Kolhapuri sandal makers in the future. This is unusual because most global fashion brands rarely admit when they have failed to credit the original creators of a design.

This is not the first time a big fashion brand has been accused of using Indian or South Asian designs without giving proper credit. Earlier this year, brands like H&M and Reformation faced criticism for releasing clothes that looked very similar to South Asian garments. While H&M denied copying, Reformation said their design was inspired by a model’s outfit. Just a few weeks ago, Dior was also criticized for using a traditional Indian embroidery technique called mukaish in a coat, but not mentioning its Indian roots.

Some experts say that designers often use ideas from different cultures to create new styles, and they do not always have bad intentions. In the fast-paced world of fashion, brands may not always think about the cultural impact of their choices. However, critics argue that when powerful brands use traditional designs and sell them at high prices, they have a responsibility to give credit and show respect to the original creators. Shefalee Vasudev, editor-in-chief of Voice of Fashion, says that giving credit is a basic part of being a responsible designer, and brands need to educate themselves about this.

India’s luxury market is growing, and many global brands see it as a big opportunity. According to the Boston Consulting Group, the luxury retail market in India is expected to grow a lot by 2032. This is because more people in India are becoming wealthy and interested in luxury goods. However, some experts, like Arvind Singhal from Technopak, believe that most luxury brands still do not see India as a major market. Even though there are new luxury malls in big cities, most Indians do not buy from brands like Prada, and the stores do not get many customers.

Anand Bhushan, a fashion designer from Delhi, points out that India has always been a place where luxury brands get their clothes made, but not a place where they sell a lot. He says that it is not right for brands to use Indian culture without understanding its history and context, and then sell it for a lot of money. He remembers when Chanel’s 'Paris-Bombay' collection used Indian styles, which some people liked, but others thought was just using stereotypes.

Nonita Kalra, editor-in-chief of Tata CliQ Luxury, believes that India is becoming more important for luxury brands because young Indians are developing new tastes and aspirations. She says that Prada’s mistake seemed genuine, and the brand has tried to fix it. However, she thinks the bigger problem is that many Western brands are run by people who do not understand other cultures well. She suggests that brands should hire people from different backgrounds to help them see things from different perspectives.

The issue of cultural appropriation is complicated, and there are no easy answers. But the Prada sandal controversy has started an important conversation about how brands should respect and support local traditions. Many Indian artisans work hard to create beautiful crafts, but they often do not get enough recognition or protection for their work. Some people in India do not value their own crafts as much as they should, which makes it easier for foreign brands to use these ideas without giving credit.

Real change will only happen when both Indians and people around the world start to appreciate and respect the work of local artisans. This will help protect their traditions and ensure that they get the recognition and rewards they deserve.