Fur is firmly back in fashion - and even more divisive than ever

Fur is making a strong comeback in the fashion world, and it is stirring up a lot of debate. Celebrities, fashion enthusiasts, and the younger generation, particularly Gen Z, are embracing fur once again. However, the choice to wear any type of fur, whether it is vintage or synthetic, raises some challenging questions. Some are suggesting that a new type of faux fur made from plants could be a more sustainable option. The autumn/winter 2025-26 fashion shows in major cities like New York, London, Milan, and Paris showcased fur prominently. Celebrities like Taylor Swift were spotted at the beginning of the year wearing both faux and vintage fur coats. The last significant discussion about fur occurred in 2017 when many designers decided to stop using real fur in their collections. This decision was celebrated by animal rights activists, but it also led to a new issue: much of the real fur was replaced with synthetic alternatives made from fossil fuels. Given the ongoing debates surrounding animal welfare and environmental concerns, it is intriguing to see why fur is now back in vogue. Designers such as Gabriela Hearst included faux fur in their collections for the autumn/winter 2025-26 season. The fashion industry is known for its cyclical nature, often revisiting past styles. Natascha Radclyffe-Thomas, an associate professor in fashion business and entrepreneurship at Ravensbourne University in London, explains that reviving historical looks for modern wear is a natural part of the fashion cycle. She describes it as a form of escapism, something that many people desire. Radclyffe-Thomas recalls the moment when former Gucci CEO Marco Bizzarri announced that the brand would no longer use animal fur, marking a significant shift for an Italian luxury brand that had heavily relied on fur. However, the topic of faux fur is complex. Since many designer labels banned real fur, the faux-fur market has evolved significantly. The early days of faux fur, characterized by low-cost, brightly colored options that did not resemble real fur, have given way to high-quality alternatives that many consumers cannot distinguish from the real thing. The global production of fossil fuel-based fabrics continues to rise, with polyester being the most commonly used material. Even clothing made from recycled polyester poses challenges, as it is primarily made from plastic bottles rather than old textiles. This means that it cannot be recycled again and is likely to end up in landfills eventually. Berlin-based fashion influencer Sonia Lyson is part of a new wave of fans embracing faux fur. Fashion rental companies like By Rotation have seen an increase in the rental of faux fur and wool coats, even before the recent fashion shows. A London brand called Charlotte Simone has gained popularity, with its faux fur coats being among the most rented items. Eshita Kabra-Davies, the founder and CEO of By Rotation, explains that higher-quality, well-made faux fur, especially from designer brands, tends to last longer. This longevity means that these items are more likely to be passed down, resold, or rented rather than discarded. The trend of buying pre-loved clothes has also gained momentum, with a record number of shoppers participating in 2024. Holly Watkins, the owner of a vintage boutique called One Scoop Store in north London, has observed a significant shift in customer preferences over the past few years. She has noticed a growing demand for fake fur instead of real fur, responding to changing tastes and values. Watkins states, 'I only sell real fur if it's a super-special vintage piece that I can't say no to, or if it has a detachable collar or trim. ' She believes that prolonging the life of old fur is better than sending it to landfills. However, she also acknowledges that many vintage shops in west London continue to sell real fur, both old and new, with younger shoppers driving this trend. A recent article in the Wall Street Journal highlighted that Gen Z is leading the revival of vintage fur. Madison Avenue Furs, the largest buyer of pre-owned fur in the United States, has reported a significant increase in sales, particularly among college students. Larry Cowit, the owner of Madison Avenue Furs, notes, 'We saw college students coming in to buy fur, which we haven't seen in years. ' Customers are purchasing vintage furs from renowned brands like Christian Dior, Fendi, and Prada. At the recent fashion weeks, most of the fur showcased was faux, but there was also a real vintage fur coat featured by a designer who promotes 'luxury with a conscience. ' Animal rights activists, however, do not accept the vintage argument. Emma Håkansson, founder of Collective Fashion Justice, argues that vintage fur is still clothing made from the skin of animals that were killed unnecessarily. She believes that it symbolizes human dominance over animals and that we should not accept this in the 21st century when there are numerous alternatives available that do not involve animal exploitation. Among the new-generation alternatives to traditional fur and real animal skin is Savian, a material made entirely from nettle, flax, and hemp sourced from Europe. Developed by the material science company BioFluff, Savian was first introduced in a longline coat by Stella McCartney during a fashion event in November 2023 and was later used by Danish brand Ganni for Copenhagen Fashion Week. BioFluff is collaborating with various fashion brands to develop materials that meet their needs, but they face challenges due to the reliance of many brands on low-cost synthetic materials produced in the Far East. BioFluff is part of a program from LVMH that aims to accelerate the implementation of new solutions within its portfolio of brands, which includes Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior, and Fendi. Conversely, LVMH also funds The International Fur Federation, which promotes a global certification and traceability system for real fur. The debate over whether synthetic fur has a higher environmental impact than real fur is complex. A 2013 study compared the environmental impact of natural mink fur coats to that of faux fur coats and found that the production of natural mink fur had the highest climate impact. When considering this study alongside the fact that millions of animals are killed each year for fur, is the production of new fur clothing ever justified? Vintage fur garments, both faux and real, are increasingly in demand. Cowit, who continues to sell both new and vintage furs, believes it is ultimately up to customers to make their own choices. Radclyffe-Thomas reflects on how her views on real fur were challenged when she worked in the United States and met individuals for whom hunting and trapping were part of their cultural traditions. She acknowledges that for many Indigenous cultures, fur and animal skins hold cultural significance and are used for ceremonial and everyday clothing. However, she also recalls her early experiences learning sewing techniques from a furrier, which made her acutely aware of the number of animals killed for clothing. This realization solidified her personal stance: she has never considered purchasing real fur.