Isaan, Thailand: the good and the bad – Khmer temples, dinosaur fossils and vibrant festivals, but unhealthy food, air pollution and deadly fireworks

If you've ever traveled to Thailand, it's likely that you've encountered individuals from Isaan without even realizing it. The hotel receptionist in Phuket, the tuk-tuk driver in Chiang Mai, the bartender in Hua Hin, or the masseuse in Koh Samui could all hail from this region, which borders Laos, the Mekong River, and Cambodia. Isaan is predominantly inhabited by ethnically Lao people, sharing historical, linguistic, and cultural ties with its neighboring countries. Despite constituting a third of Thailand's land area, its 20 provinces are often overlooked by tourists. Foreigners spotted in these parts are typically missionaries, English teachers, or retirees who have married locals.

Parts of Isaan offer a glimpse into a bygone era of Thailand. Water buffaloes labor in lush paddy fields, and rickshaw drivers transport housewives to rustic markets brimming with freshly harvested produce. Prasat Hin Phimai, an ancient Angkor-style temple in Nakhon Ratchasima, was once an outpost of the Khmer Empire. Today, it attracts a handful of travelers in a region of Thailand where tourists are scarce. Women continue to practice the art of silk weaving on traditional handlooms. Despite some Thais in holiday destinations growing weary of the tourist influx, the hospitality and genuine warmth of Isaan's people set them apart.

While tourists may be sparse, two ancient monuments that do attract a few are the Angkor-style temples of Phanom Rung in Buriram province and Prasat Hin Phimai in Nakhon Ratchasima. These temples date back to the 10th and 11th centuries, respectively, when the region was a significant outpost of the Khmer Empire. Phanom Rung is perched atop an extinct volcano, and its temple gates are aligned such that the sun's rays penetrate the sacred inner sanctuary during solar equinoxes. Phimai, on the other hand, is on Unesco's tentative list for future inclusion as a World Heritage site. Visitors who come to admire the restored ruins also marvel at Sai Ngam, Thailand's oldest and largest banyan tree, which is 350 years old.