Cannonball factory and a church revealed under Spain's dried-up lake
In a remarkable turn of events, a severe drought in Spain has unveiled hidden treasures beneath the Darnius-Boadella reservoir, including an 18th-century cannonball factory. This unexpected discovery has drawn attention to the historical significance of the site, which had been submerged since 1969 when the dam was completed. The drought has not only exposed the ruins of the factory but has also transformed the landscape into a surreal scene of cracked earth and decaying stone structures. As I walked through the valley, I was struck by the sight of two long, rectangular buildings that stood side by side, their roofs long gone and their walls crumbling. The absence of windows allowed glimpses of the bright blue sky above, creating a stark contrast to the desolation below. Built in 1771, the Royal Foundry of Sant Sebastià of the Muga was once a bustling site for manufacturing cannonballs. It was strategically located near essential resources: wood for charcoal, water for powering the furnace, and iron ore from nearby mines. The factory operated until around 1794, when it was destroyed during the War of the Pyrenees, a conflict involving France, Spain, and Portugal. Since then, the site has remained hidden from view, submerged under the reservoir's waters. The recent drought has allowed locals and visitors alike to witness this historical site for the first time in over fifty years. Marià Baig, a local historian, noted that many people have been hiking to the foundry, eager to see the remnants of a place they had only heard about. Even those familiar with the maps and historical records were surprised by the scale of the ruins. As I explored the area, I found it hard to believe that this valley was once the bottom of a large reservoir. The landscape was barren, with patches of dry grass and a small stream struggling to flow through the cracked earth. An old paddleboat lay abandoned on the shore, a reminder of the recreational activities that once thrived in this area. The reservoir, which could hold enough water for 24,000 Olympic-sized swimming pools, is now reduced to just 11% of its capacity. Carlos Barbero Lartigau, who oversees dams at the Catalan Water Agency, explained that the region has faced significant challenges due to climate change, resulting in a lack of rainfall. The signs of drought were evident everywhere; people were not watering their lawns, and restaurants charged extra for bottled water. Despite the challenges, visiting the cannonball factory was a unique experience. My family and I were captivated by the history and the stories the ruins held. While the adults took photographs, the children played inside the factory, their laughter echoing through the empty rooms. The historian mentioned that the blast furnace is still buried beneath the ground, and he hopes to excavate it for further study in the future. After our exploration, we made our way to a small chapel called Sant Sebastià, built in 1609. The chapel, like the factory, was revealed by the receding waters. Its narrow nave and empty altar exuded a sense of tranquility, despite the debris scattered around. The drought has not only exposed the cannonball factory and chapel but has also revealed other historical sites in different reservoirs across Catalonia. Although the water level at the Darnius Boadella reservoir has improved slightly since my visit, it remains low, and access to the factory and chapel is now limited to boat trips. Fortunately, local companies offer canoe and kayak excursions, allowing visitors to experience the area from the water. As we hiked away from the ruins, I couldn't help but wonder how long they would remain visible. I imagined a future where a wave would once again cover the factory and chapel, hiding them from view. With that thought in mind, I continued my journey, grateful for the opportunity to witness such a remarkable piece of history.
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"The area looks very different now, with cracked earth and old stone buildings that are falling apart."
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"The factory made cannonballs until around 1794 when it was destroyed during a war."
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