General Tso’s chicken to bento bowls: A food guide to Taiwan politics

Aeles, a Taiwanese chef, is passionate about her cultural heritage, which she expresses through her culinary creations. She specializes in making millet dumplings, a revered dish in her tribe, the Rukai. The Rukai have resided in the mountains of south-eastern Taiwan for generations. During Aeles' childhood, the cuisine of Taiwan's indigenous tribes was scarcely found outside their communities. However, as Taiwan's identity evolves, often in opposition to Chinese claims, indigenous cuisine is gaining recognition.

Aeles was the sole indigenous student in her high school in Taipei. She was frequently subjected to ridicule by her predominantly Chinese classmates due to her dark skin. She recounts how Taiwan's Japanese colonizers forced her ancestors to abandon their mountain homes to cultivate land. Under the authoritarian rule of China's Nationalists, they were prohibited from speaking their native language. A devastating fire that nearly obliterated her tribe compelled many of them to seek employment in urban areas.

During her holiday visits home, Aeles was reluctant to leave. She devoted much of her time to mastering the art of cooking. Four decades ago, she established her own restaurant, Dawana, serving her tribe's traditional dishes on their ancestral land. Located in Jhihben, a town renowned for its hot springs, Dawana was Aeles' means of reconnecting with her roots. Her menu pays homage to the Rukai's hunting culture with dishes like smoked pork and blood sausage, while a betel leaf-infused cheesecake hints at external influences.