Turkey recently tried to introduce strict rules for how doner kebabs should be made in the European Union, but the plan has now been dropped. If Turkey had succeeded, kebab shops across Europe, especially in Germany, would have had to follow new guidelines about the types of meat and ingredients they could use. The doner kebab is a popular street food in Germany, but over the years, it has changed from the original Turkish recipe. Turkish officials argued that the doner kebab is a national dish that spread to Europe as Turkish people moved there. However, German officials responded by saying that their version of the kebab has become a part of Germany's own food culture.
The traditional Turkish method of making doner kebab dates back to the 16th century. The word 'doner' comes from the way the meat is cooked on a vertical rotisserie that spins. Turkey's International Doner Federation wanted the European Union to set rules for all kebab shops. These rules would have required the meat to come only from cows older than 16 months, lamb older than six months, or chicken thighs and breasts. Veal and turkey meat would not be allowed. The meat would have to be sliced to a thickness of 3 to 5 millimeters, and even the type of knife and the marinades would be regulated.
In Germany, the doner kebab is often made with veal and served in flatbread filled with vegetables like red cabbage, pickles, and red onions, topped with various sauces. This is quite different from the Turkish classic. The Turkish federation did not consult with German kebab makers before making their proposal, and the German government quickly opposed the idea. The German food and agriculture ministry said it was surprised by Turkey's request. Cem Özdemir, a former German food minister who is of Turkish descent, said that people in Germany should be free to eat doner kebab however they like, and that there was no need for rules from Turkey. He insisted, 'The doner belongs to Germany. '
If Turkey's proposal had gone ahead, it would have affected many kebab shops in Europe, most of which are run by people of Turkish descent. In Germany alone, there are more than 1. 5 million Turkish citizens, and many more with Turkish roots. Around 60,000 people work in the kebab industry in Germany, producing about 400 tonnes of kebab every day. The Association of Turkish Doner Manufacturers in Europe says that kebab sales across Europe are worth about €3. 5 billion each year, with €2. 4 billion coming from Germany.
Turkey withdrew its proposal after receiving many objections. The European Commission was likely to reject the plan anyway. An EU official told BBC Turkish that the proposal was heading towards rejection. For now, kebab shops in Europe can continue making doner kebabs in their own way, without having to follow strict rules from Turkey.
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"If Turkey had succeeded, kebab shops in places like Germany would have had to follow strict rules about what meat and ingredients they could use."
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