悄悄話——無酒精葡萄酒已抵達法國

In the picturesque vineyards of Bordeaux, France, a remarkable transformation is taking place in the wine industry. The once unthinkable concept of alcohol-free wine has now become a reality. This shift is not just a passing trend; it represents a significant change in consumer preferences and the wine-making process itself. Frédéric Brochet, a renowned oenologist, has been at the forefront of this movement, working diligently to create high-quality alcohol-free wines. Reflecting on the early days of this endeavor, Brochet candidly admits, 'When we started a few years ago, what we were making was frankly rubbish. ' However, he is optimistic about the progress that has been made, stating, 'Today we are getting nearer and nearer to our goal. I think it is going to be a revolution in the wine world. ' The recent opening of Bordeaux's first dedicated alcohol-free wine shop, Les Belles Grappes, is a testament to the growing interest in this market. Alexandre Kettaneh, the shop owner, shares his excitement, noting that even local wine-growers are eager to learn about the non-alcohol market. 'They don't know anything about how to do it, but they can see it is coming and want to be part of it,' he explains. This shift in consumer behavior is particularly evident among younger generations, who are increasingly opting for non-alcoholic beverages. The changing landscape of the French wine industry is influenced by several factors. Firstly, domestic wine consumption has been declining, and the once-promising Chinese market is not as lucrative as it once was. Additionally, the threat of new tariffs from the incoming U. S. administration has added to the challenges faced by wine producers. As a result, many vineyards are being uprooted, and the industry is in a state of flux. Secondly, the preferences of younger consumers are evolving. Supermarkets are now allocating more shelf space to beer than to wine, and many young adults have never developed a habit of drinking wine. They are also more health-conscious than previous generations, leading to a growing interest in non-alcoholic options. Currently, 10% of the French beer market consists of alcohol-free products, while in Spain, that figure rises to 25%. The advancements in technology have played a crucial role in the development of alcohol-free wines. In the past, the process of creating these wines often involved boiling away the alcohol and adding artificial flavors, resulting in a product that fell short of true wine quality. However, recent innovations, such as low-temperature vacuum distillation and aroma-capturing techniques, have significantly improved the quality of alcohol-free wines. Fabien Marchand-Cassagne, another expert in the field, emphasizes that while alcohol-free red wines may not replicate the full experience of traditional wines, they still offer a genuine wine moment. 'What you will get is a genuine wine moment. Bouquet, tannins, fruits, balance – it is all there to be enjoyed,' he assures consumers. At the Clos De Bouard estate, the success of their alcohol-free brands has been remarkable, with a third of their sales now coming from these products. Coralie de Bouard, the estate owner, recalls how her journey into the world of alcohol-free wine began when she was asked to create a non-alcoholic option for the Qatari owners of the PSG football club. Initially, her family was resistant to the idea, but they have since come to appreciate the importance of this shift in the market. 'My family wouldn't talk to me for a year, such was my 'treason',' she shares. 'But now my father congratulates me and says I am the locomotive in the wine train. ' This evolution in the wine industry has not been without its challenges. Traditionalists have struggled to accept the rise of alcohol-free options, but many recognize the need to adapt to changing consumer preferences. Bernard Rabouy, a wine-grower for the Bordeaux Families cooperative, acknowledges this reality, stating, 'The fact is that the customers aren't where they used to be. So we have to go and get them or they will go somewhere else. ' The emergence of alcohol-free wine has also opened doors for non-drinkers, allowing them to participate in social gatherings and enjoy the rituals associated with wine tasting. Anne Kattaneh, who co-owns the wine shop, expresses her desire to revive the tradition of sharing wine at the dinner table. 'What we want to do is try to bring back the France of our youth – when everyone sat around the dinner table and drank wine, and it was a real moment of sharing,' she explains. Frédéric Brochet concludes by reminding us that the wine industry has always been characterized by innovation and evolution. 'The idea that the wine world was always as it is now, is rubbish,' he asserts. 'Things evolve. Once upon a time the barrel was an innovation. The cork was an innovation; grape varietals were an innovation. And now this is a new one – which could help save the industry and the wonderful landscape and culture that goes with it.